When we talk about dress shirts, we’re talking about those refined, formal shirts you’d pair with a suit or wear solo to exude sophistication. Many underestimate the dress shirt, thinking it's less noticeable than the suit, which often leads them to settle for “good enough” quality.
But a truly well-crafted dress shirt is essential for a polished look and versatile enough to wear with trousers alone on warm days or whenever you feel like dressing down without losing elegance.
And here're some key indicators of a high-quality dress shirt you should notice:
Fabric Quality
Cotton is the go-to choice for premium dress shirts, known for its breathability, durability, and ease of care. High-end shirts typically use two-ply cotton, where each thread is doubled, making the fabric softer and more robust than single-yarn cotton.
While some dress shirts blend in polyester to reduce wrinkles and cut costs, adding polyester can compromise the shirt’s feel and appearance. A pure cotton shirt might need a bit more ironing but avoids that plasticky, shiny look polyester brings.
Collar Structure
A dress shirt’s collar should hold its shape without curling or twisting. High-quality shirts often include collar stays, which add structure and keep the collar firm. Button-down collars with small buttons at the tips can also serve the same purpose, ensuring the collar looks sharp and sophisticated.
Buttons
The material of the buttons - while nice - is less critical than how securely they’re attached. Well-sewn buttons should feel firm with no looseness. A properly secured button row is a hallmark of quality craftsmanship, ensuring durability and eliminating the need for spare buttons as a backup.
Stitching
Consistent, tight stitching throughout is essential for longevity. If you spot loose or crooked stitches, think twice about the shirt’s quality. High-quality shirts, especially at the collar and cuffs, should have about 10 stitches per centimeter, though elite brands often go for 15 stitches per centimeter. Extra stitching along sleeves and side seams helps prevent stretching, especially around areas that endure frequent movement.
Design Details
For patterned shirts (like stripes or checks), quality shows in the alignment - the patterns should match at the shoulders, back, and side seams. The back tail should also be slightly longer for easy tucking, while the bottom buttonhole is ideally horizontal to prevent shirt shifting. These small design touches enhance durability and are worth discussing with a good tailor.
Additionally, there’s quite a bit of debate around assessing the quality of formal shirts.
The center seam on the back of the shirt clearly divides the back into two panels.
Another debated detail in quality dress shirts is the split yoke - a seam running down the back. Some say it’s merely aesthetic, while others argue it improves comfort by giving more flexibility at the shoulders, especially with arm movement.
Finding the right dress shirt comes down to knowing what to look for in fabric, structure, and detail. Keep an eye on these factors, and you’ll add pieces to your wardrobe that look sharp, feel great, and stand the test of time.
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