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If the fabric can’t handle the heat, you’ll be the one melting faster than your ice cream cone

Writer's picture: Tom GoedhartTom Goedhart

Updated: Dec 26, 2024

Think a t-shirt and shorts are all you need to stay cool in the summer? While that’s true to some extent, t-shirts, polo shirts, and shorts can sometimes lack a touch of sophistication. If you want to keep it stylish, you might still want to consider long-sleeved shirts and trousers. 😁


In this guide, we’ll take a look at the fabrics that are perfect for summer. The key takeaway? Fabric choice plays a huge role in how comfortable you feel - whether cool or warm - thanks to how they’re processed and woven, not just whether they’re long-sleeve or short-sleeve, thick or thin.


Cotton

It would be impossible not to mention cotton, the most common fabric in the global garment industry. Cotton’s breathability and excellent moisture-wicking properties make it a staple for any summer wardrobe.

Open-weave cotton is particularly great for maximum airflow and comfort.

Cotton can be treated in countless ways, with each treatment creating different textures and qualities. For summer, look for plain weave cotton or poplin - pure cotton fibers treated with alkali to create a soft, cool fabric with a slight sheen.

T-shirts are a classic example of cotton’s cooling properties.

There are also other cotton weaves worth noting: jersey (a smooth knit fabric, often used for t-shirts and long-sleeve shirts) and pique (a looser weave with tiny holes, commonly found in polo shirts).


Seersucker

Seersucker isn’t really a fabric itself, but a treatment method that gives fabric a crinkled, striped texture. These crinkles create space between the fabric and your skin, theoretically allowing more airflow. However, since seersucker is tightly woven, its breathability is still a bit of a debate.

To picture seersucker at its finest, think of the jacket worn by Roberto Mancini, head coach of Italy’s national football team - his gray and light blue seersucker jacket is a perfect example of understated elegance.


Regardless of the debates, seersucker has earned its place as a popular fabric choice for hot weather. 😆


Linen

If you’ve never worn linen in summer, you’re missing out on true comfort. 😂 Made from flax fibers, linen is incredibly breathable, making it a top contender for hot days. Its only drawback is that it’s not very stretchy, meaning linen garments wrinkle easily. But for linen fans, those wrinkles are part of its charm.

When wearing linen, it’s usually best to opt for either a linen shirt or trousers, but not both at the same time. The natural wrinkles in linen should be balanced to avoid looking overly rumpled. 😉


Wool

It may sound surprising, but wool can actually be great for summer. Although wool is often associated with warmth, when woven loosely and openly, it can be cooler than many synthetic fibers or even tightly woven cotton.


Fresco wool is one such example. It’s made from tightly twisted wool fibers that create small gaps in the fabric. When held up to light, you’ll see numerous “holes,” which promote airflow.

You might get bitten by mosquitoes through the fabric when wearing trousers made of fresco wool...

Believe it or not, I once doubted wool’s summer suitability until I tried a pair of fresco wool trousers - yes, I even got bitten by mosquitoes through them. 😢

Other summer-friendly wool weaves include Hopsack and Panama, which are woven loosely to ensure maximum breathability, even for suits.


Tips for Choosing Summer Fabrics

Prioritize open-weave fabrics: Hold the fabric up to light or sunlight. If you can see tiny gaps between the threads, that’s a good sign. These small openings allow better air circulation, helping to regulate body temperature.

Don’t judge by weight or thickness: Lighter fabrics aren’t always more breathable. Some heavier, open-weave fabrics are cooler than thin, tightly woven ones.

Go for light colors: Light-colored fabrics reflect sunlight, while darker ones absorb heat.

Choose natural fabrics: Opt for 100% natural fibers or those with minimal synthetic content to ensure maximum comfort.


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