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The wrong shoe color can turn you into a meme

Writer's picture: Tom GoedhartTom Goedhart

Updated: Dec 27, 2024

Men’s footwear has broken out of the old-fashioned molds. Today, you can pull off Oxford shoes with jeans or style sneakers with a suit. But one rule still stands strong - color. Pairing the wrong shoe color with your outfit can derail your entire look.


Matching colors is like handling traffic signals; a minor misstep can be costly. The easiest rule? Pair shoe colors that closely match your pants - black with black, brown with light tan chinos. It’s a safe bet to keep your style intact, though it risks getting predictable.


Black Shoes

A pair of black Oxfords defines timeless sophistication. In classic fashion, they complete a sharp black suit ensemble. Personally, I reserve black suits for the most formal occasions, but black shoes work just as well with gray, navy, or charcoal suits for a polished look.


Pairing black shoes with chinos takes a bit more thought. Derby shoes have a relaxed vibe that complements chinos better than Oxfords. And with jeans? Black Oxfords look best with slim black jeans, while Chelsea boots or classic Dr. Martens can handle dark blue jeans effortlessly.


Light-colored pants (beige, light blue, khaki) can be tricky with black shoes. Try cuffing your pants, wearing no-show socks, or choosing loafers instead of lace-up shoes to tone down the contrast.


Brown Shoes

Brown is the most versatile color for shoes, with lighter shades that blend easily with different looks. When pairing brown shoes with pants, avoid matching exact tones. Think of it like denim-on-denim - one piece should be darker to avoid looking flat.


Dark brown shoes are a go-to with dark blue (indigo) jeans and can add a rugged edge to distressed styles. I prefer dark brown brogues or Chelsea boots with jeans. The deeper the brown, the easier they are to wear with denim - even black.


Tan brown shoes bring a relaxed vibe. I often pair tan shoes with indigo jeans and a striped blue shirt for a clean, casual look.


Tan brown shoes can work with practically any jeans or chinos, especially in summer when lighter colors are in rotation. Bonus: tan brown also looks sharp with shorts, especially suede styles.


Oxblood Shoes

This rich, deep red is becoming a surprisingly versatile choice. Like brown, oxblood has a unique adaptability. Pairing oxblood shoes with a suit might feel bold, but it adds a refined twist to a smart-casual outfit.


Oxblood Derbies look stylish and polished, but penny loafers truly bring out the depth of this color. Pair them with lightly distressed jeans, navy pants, or colorful chinos for a sharp look that stands out.


White Sneakers

Brands like Common Projects have transformed sneakers from sport essentials to style icons. While classics like the adidas Stan Smith set the stage, the sleek, minimalist look of Common Projects’ Achilles Low has become a go-to. White sneakers can be worn with a suit during the day and transition seamlessly to t-shirt and shorts by evening - a versatility that’s hard to beat.


White sneakers likely won’t replace classic dress shoes for formal suits, but they’re a welcome alternative for a modern twist.


That said, white sneakers require some upkeep to stay sharp enough for dressier outfits. Keep the pristine pair for your suit days, and save older, worn-in ones for casual outings.


Extra Tips for Matching Shoe Colors:

  • Darker colors generally work with more outfits.

  • Elegance isn’t just about shoe style but also color: while Oxfords are formal, a chocolate brown pair has a more approachable vibe.

  • White sneakers can pair with almost anything, while white Oxfords should be avoided for formal looks.

  • Use shoe polish that matches your shoe color. For trickier shades, a neutral polish is a safe choice.


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