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Writer's pictureTom Goedhart

The Quick Suit Fit Guide: Look Sharp, Not Sloppy

If there’s one thing I hope you’ll remember when suit shopping, it’s this: fit is king. End-of-year sales are a minefield for impatient shoppers. Picture this: the jacket you’ve been eyeing forever is finally half-price, but your size is sold out. You settle for a size L when you’re an M, thinking, “I’ll make it work.” Spoiler alert - it won’t. You’ll wear it once, hate how it ruins your silhouette, and leave it to gather dust. Was it really a bargain?

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When it comes to suits, fit isn’t just important - it’s everything. You might spot poorly fitted suits styled in trendy “Korean fashion” on the street: jackets too short, sleeves and chest too tight, and wonder why they don’t look quite right. Before you dive into fabric swatches, colors, or fancy lapel styles, get the fit nailed down. Whether it’s off-the-rack or custom-made, here’s your cheat sheet for a perfectly fitted suit:


Collar

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The collar should sit snugly around the shirt underneath. Bend forward - if the collar lifts off your neck, it’s a no-go.


Shoulders

Shoulder seams should align with your natural shoulder curve. No sagging, no pulling - just a clean line.

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Shoulder pads? Keep them light. Heavy padding creates a rigid look that feels bulky and unnatural.


Chest

A well-fitted jacket buttons up easily, with just enough room for movement. Pro tip: button the jacket and slip your fist inside. If the gap is roughly fist-width, you’re good.

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Jacket Length

Relax your arms and loosely clench your fists. Your fingertips should graze the bottom of the jacket. Can’t reach the hem? It’s too short. Grabbing the hem? Too long.

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From the back, the jacket should cover your rear - at least the fullest part of it.


Sleeves

Let 2–2.5 cm of shirt cuff peek out. Extend your arms forward (like for a handshake); the sleeves should stay put without pulling or shifting. If they move too much, something’s off.

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Trousers

If you’re used to low-rise jeans, suit trousers might feel high. They should sit about 3–4 cm above your navel, fitting snugly against your hip bone.


As for length? Check out detailed guides on dress trouser breaks for more insight.

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Lapels

There are two main types of lapels: notch and peak. Notch lapels are versatile and office-friendly. Peak lapels, with their sharper angles, lean more classic and bold. For starters, stick with notch lapels.

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Notch (on the left) and Peak (on the right).


A quick note on proportion: lapels should complement your frame. Narrow shoulders with oversized lapels can make it look like the suit is wearing you.

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The right fit transforms a suit from just another outfit into a power move. Nail it, and you’ll own every room you walk into.


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