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Hoi An Diaries: Sipping, Dining, and Discovering

Writer's picture: Tom GoedhartTom Goedhart

Here I am again, back in Hoi An for the fourth or fifth time. Honestly, it’s absurd at this point. An annual pilgrimage to this charming town has turned into an unshakable tradition - one I occasionally consider breaking to save money or explore fresh destinations. But somehow, Hoi An always pulls me back.


And so, under Hoi An’s brilliant blue sky and golden-yellow walls, I find myself again. The scorching heat is inescapable, and while cycling through the ancient town might seem picturesque, it’s a sweaty endeavor, to say the least.


Having been here so many times, this trip is less about exploring and more about rekindling the joy of things I’ve missed over the past year: tranquil cafés under the blazing sun, the irresistible aroma of grilled pork skewers, and, of course, a comforting bowl of cao lầu. In this piece, I won’t bore you with generalities about how charming Hoi An is or how delightful it can be. Instead, I’ll stick to my promise and share some of my favorite cafés and Western dining spots that make each return visit so memorable.


After all, a trip to Hoi An isn’t complete without a lazy afternoon in a peaceful café, soaking in the calm vibes of this magical town.


One of my must-visit spots is Cargo Club, nestled on Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, not far from the communal house. Spacious and bright, the café has an open layout that transitions seamlessly from room to room, creating an inviting atmosphere.


Even when it’s bustling, the white walls and abundant natural light streaming through its large windows keep the vibe light and relaxing. The music? Decent enough. But the service - let’s just say it’s hit or miss. For a town celebrated for its hospitality, Cargo’s service can sometimes feel indifferent.


Still, I keep coming back for the desserts and ice cream. And let me tell you, the Baby Pavlova is the star of the show. The sweet yet airy meringue base, topped with fragrant whipped cream and tangy mango-passion fruit sauce, is a refreshing summer treat. The almond fruit cake and the crispy-topped strawberry dessert (whose French name I can never recall) are equally fantastic.


But the ice cream? It’s a revelation. The sorbets are bright and refreshing, while the chocolate and dairy-based flavors are luxuriously smooth, wrapping your palate in pure bliss.

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Bữa sáng 75k với bánh mì, croissant, nước cam chanh, cafe, hoa quả, các loại mứt và bơ.
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Another favorite haunt is Mango Room. Though their menu is admittedly overpriced, the riverside ambiance always draws me back. Lunch here often means a pitcher of sangria and a prime seat by the window, offering an uninterrupted view of the river.


The colorful furniture pops against the rustic green walls, creating a cozy yet playful vibe. Sure, the heat can be relentless, and the ceiling fan might initially feel like a warm breeze, but once you’ve cooled off, it’s paradise.


The meal kicked off with a salad featuring thinly sliced prosciutto, curly lettuce, boiled eggs, and pale yellow cheese slices. A simple dish, yet it set the tone perfectly for the main courses to come.

Một món cá của bạn tôi gọi.
Salad đây.

Vongole - a classic Italian spaghetti dish with clams and white wine - was my next choice. As a fan of vongole, I wasn’t disappointed. The thick spaghetti was cooked just right, with a firm al dente bite. While some might think the pasta is undercooked, it’s the hallmark of authentic Italian preparation. Personally, I love the chewy texture.


However, I docked a point for its slightly dry texture. If you don’t eat it quickly, the pasta absorbs the white wine sauce, leaving it dry and harder to enjoy.

Mỳ Vongole của tôi đây.

A friend ordered the carbonara, but I wasn’t impressed. It used cream, which made it overly rich for my liking, and the fettucine - flat noodles - didn’t win me over. My ideal carbonara features thick spaghetti paired with a sauce made of eggs, parmesan or pecorino, and chunks of prosciutto or guanciale - not ham or bacon.


We shared a large pizza, which had decent flavor but fell short due to the crust being too thin. While I generally enjoy thin-crust pizza, this one lacked the right balance of crispiness and softness, leaving it dry and brittle. The scant amount of cheese only amplified the issue, making each bite feel like a desert in my mouth.

Hơi khô phải không?

The standout dish of the evening was the steak ordered by my friend. When it arrived, I was floored by its size - fit for a group, not just one person. The beef was perfectly medium rare, tender, and glistening. Although the cheese sauce was a bit heavy for my taste, it complemented the meat beautifully. Grilled vegetables rounded out the dish, adding flavor and variety.


If there were a place in Hanoi serving steak like this, I’d be a regular.

Steak khổng lồ.

Morning Glory’s house-made limoncello was another highlight. Bright green from lemon zest, it started with an overpowering vodka aroma that hit you like the midday sun - sharp and intense. But give it a second, and the magic unfolds. The vodka gives way to a sweet, citrusy aftertaste that lingers like a refreshing summer rain. A dessert drink that’s both bold and soothing, it was the ideal way to cap off a meal rich in flavors and textures.

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At about 500,000 VND per person, Morning Glory is reasonably priced, comparable to restaurants in Hanoi. For a sumptuous feast like this, it was worth every penny.


Aside from Morning Glory, here are a few other spots worth checking out:

  • Le Banyan: Located by An Bang Beach, this seaside bar has colorful cushions, hammocks, and a relaxing vibe. The cocktails are solid, and the food is reasonably priced.

  • Hai Café: A familiar name for many, though I skipped it this time. The iconic patio furniture facing the old town has been replaced with more generic dining sets.

  • Before and Now: Perfect for drinks, music, and perhaps some billiards or football. While not ideal for a wild night out, it’s a cozy spot to unwind. For serious partying, head across the river to the bustling bar scene.


This trip reminded me why Hoi An never gets old. It’s not just about the food or the views; it’s the stories and experiences you collect along the way. What’s your go-to spot in Hoi An?


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