Osteria Francescana, a legendary culinary gem in Modena, Italy, has claimed the top spot on the list of the world’s 50 best restaurants in 2016 and 2018. Unsurprisingly, this iconic establishment is crowned with three Michelin stars.
At its heart is chef Massimo Bottura, a trailblazer among modern Italian chefs. The 62-year-old maestro has sparked a cultural and culinary revolution through his dishes, weaving in influences from art, history, music, literature, and even pop culture. With his daring and sometimes eccentric approach, Bottura transforms these inspirations into unforgettable dining experiences.
My visit to Osteria Francescana was at Bottura’s personal invitation to try "The Best of Bottura" menu. It was a culinary journey led by the charismatic chef himself, sporting his signature black frames and silver beard. Dishes included lentils presented in a caviar tin, a turbot fillet adorned with seawater-silver leaf, and a standout signature creation: "Crunchy Part of the Lasagna."
The Crunchy Part of the Lasagna. Traditional lasagna layers pasta with rich minced beef sauce, béchamel, and cheese. The crispy, caramelized edges, loved by every child, inspired Bottura to reimagine the dish by stripping it down to just the golden, smoky cheese crust.
For Bottura, inspiration often comes from unexpected places, waiting to emerge as something magnificent. One of his iconic desserts, "Oops! I Dropped the Lemon Tart," originated from a kitchen accident. When a sous chef accidentally dropped the tart, Bottura saw beauty in the chaos and turned the mishap into the dish’s defining aesthetic.
"Oops! I Dropped the Lemon Tart" is a tribute to embracing mistakes with flair.
The meal concluded with "Camouflage," a dish resembling military patterns, crafted with chocolate, spices, foie gras, red wine, and even rabbit blood.
"Camouflage" challenges diners to question: Is this truly food?
"Each bite will surprise you," Bottura advised as I hesitated before the first forkful. "Pay attention!"
I had never encountered a dessert so layered in complexity, nor one that required instructions to eat. Bottura’s intensity shone through when he stopped me after the first bite. "No, no - sip some black coffee now!" He monitored every reaction, treating my palate like a canvas for his masterpiece.
"Croccantino of Foie Gras" was another highlight: foie gras encased in a caramelized hazelnut and almond shell, paired with Modena balsamic vinegar. Shaped like an ice cream bar, it’s a playful nod to Bottura’s whimsical creativity.
To Bottura, his cooking isn’t just about flavors but about crafting a profound dialogue with Italy's culinary heritage.
"Why does Italian food captivate the world?" he mused. "It carries centuries of history in every bite." Aged cheese, cured meats, hand-rolled pasta, and Modena’s aged balsamic vinegar are all hallmarks of his vision, as seen in "Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano." This dish pays homage to Parmigiano Reggiano, transforming it into mousse, foam, sauce, crisp, and "smoke," with cheeses aged 24 to 50 months.
"Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano" transforms a simple ingredient into a symphony of textures.
Since its founding in 1995, Osteria Francescana’s journey hasn’t always been smooth. In the 1990s, Modena was unacquainted with contemporary culinary experimentation. Italians, with their deep-rooted love for traditional flavors, found it challenging to embrace Bottura’s avant-garde reinterpretations.
"Tortellini Walking Into Broth." A minimalist presentation of six tortellini in a light broth -a stark departure from the usual hearty Italian portions.
In 2001, a food critic unexpectedly dined at Osteria Francescana, leading to its first Michelin star. Today, with three stars and international recognition, the restaurant stands as a pinnacle of culinary artistry.
Behind Bottura’s success is his wife, Lara Gilmore, whose partnership has been instrumental in transforming Modena. Once famed for luxury cars, the city now shines as a culinary destination synonymous with Osteria Francescana and Massimo Bottura, the man who redefined Italian cuisine.
By NY Times.
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