If you’ve been following our intro to raw denim, you’re already aware that these jeans come “untreated” - no industrial washing involved. That means they’re full of dark, rich indigo that fades and ages with each wear, turning every crease and mark into a story unique to you.
If you’re ready to dive into the details of these “dirty” jeans, let’s cover what you should know before your first buy.
Shrinkage
With raw denim, a bit of shrinkage is to be expected, even though it might seem like a flaw in quality. Because raw jeans skip the washing stage, they’ll naturally tighten up after that first wash. There’s also a process called “sanforization,” where the denim is treated to reduce shrinkage.
Sanforized jeans only shrink about 1%, while unsanforized denim can shrink 3% or more - often a full 1-2 sizes down! For first-timers, pre-shrunk denim might be your best bet. For those braving untreated denim, sizing up is a good rule of thumb.
Raw Denim Weight
Comfort is crucial, and raw denim comes in various weights. Measured in ounces per yard, most jeans fall into one of these categories: under 12oz (lightweight), 12-16oz (medium weight), and over 16oz (heavyweight). Lightweight denim is easier to break in, while heavyweight denim - like the iconic 32oz raw jeans from Naked & Famous that can stand on their own - offers a rewarding challenge for die-hard enthusiasts.
The 32oz jean from Naked & Famous can stand upright on the ground!
While lighter jeans are simpler to break in, the patina and fade on heavyweights are second to none.
The Nudie jean had surely "seen some battles" with their owner for quite some time.
It might feel stiff at first, but after about a week, they’ll start to mold to you, becoming incredibly comfortable by weeks two and three. By the six-month mark, you’ll be hooked.
The Selvedge Edge
A signature feature of premium raw denim is the “selvedge” edge - a distinct white-red seam on the inner cuff that many see as a mark of quality. Some believe it adds durability, but it’s more of a stylish accent for when you roll up your cuffs. While not every pair of raw jeans is selvedge, it’s a popular pick for those who love showing off their denim details.
Choosing the Right Fit
Measurements are key with raw denim. Know your waist, hip, thigh, and leg measurements.
Consider if you want them cuffed or hemmed. Keep in mind that it’s better to go slightly long, as hems can be adjusted, but length that’s too short is a problem you can’t fix.
Shopping Raw Denim
Popular global raw denim brands include A.P.C., Naked & Famous, Nudie Jeans, and Acne Studios. For premium Japanese denim, check out denimio.com, which carries brands like Japan Blue, Pure Blue Japan, Momotaro, Evisu, and Samurai with international shipping options. For a more curated experience, Denimister in Ho Chi Minh City is an excellent spot to snag second-hand finds from brands like Nudie, ideal for beginners diving into the raw denim world.
Embrace the process, break them in, and soon enough, your raw denim jeans will tell a story that’s entirely your own.
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