When you think of Rick Owens, words like eccentric, rugged, and “perfectly decadent” are often tossed around. The American designer himself coined the term "glunge" - a fusion of glamour and grunge, describing the intentionally messy style he’s known for.
The New York Times once crowned him “the most imitated designer,” thanks to his signature creations like asymmetrical t-shirts and edgy leather jackets. They’ve become the second skin for fashion lovers around the globe. Sure, it might not always be 100% Rick Owens gear, but his influence is undeniable.
Many brands borrow (or blatantly “steal”) from Rick’s designs, but it seems to roll off his back. Why? Because his company, OWENSCORP, which spans everything from fashion to furniture, is valued at a jaw-dropping $100 million.
Rick started his career in the ‘90s by hand-sewing jackets and selling them to small boutiques. His rebellious designs caught the eye of stars like Courtney Love, and by 2002, Vogue had him put on a show in New York - a game-changer for his career. In 2003, he moved to Paris and married his muse, Michele Lamy, a bold, formidable woman who now oversees Rick's furniture, jewelry, and fur collections.
At 52, Rick Owens continues to push boundaries with his eccentric designs and innovations, but he's also known for his aloofness. He avoids eye contact during conversations, which, if you ask him, stems from a tough childhood in suburban Los Angeles. “I was called ‘queer’ and ‘weird’ for being too quiet and frail,” Rick admits.
The “shy boy” of the past is now a force in fashion, and during a candid conversation with Surface, Rick opened up about his design philosophy and more:
Do you enjoy talking about your work?
“I fear I might talk too much,” he laughs. “I tend to be stubborn and think I know everything. Honestly, I’m very inconsistent in my views. I could say one thing today, and contradict it a year later.”
How do you approach design?
“I don’t sketch,” Rick says. “I write down a few notes that no one else understands. It could be something like ‘exploding pyramid.’ It’s just words for me, and I know what they mean when I’m working.”
Who are your designs for?
“Honestly? Myself,” he admits. “I create for my world, not for others. If I start considering what other people like, I lose my way. But that’s what makes my work feel true.”
What do you say to critics?
“Find something else,” he shrugs. “If my designs don’t speak to you, that’s fine. Maybe you’re not into fashion. But for me, they’re perfect.”
What drew you to fashion?
“I see fashion as a conversation,” he explains. “I speak through my designs, and people respond by wearing them. It’s an addictive exchange.”
Why move from Los Angeles to Paris?
“I work in Europe, where my workshop is. Paris is the epicenter of fashion. I tried staying in LA, but it didn’t feel right. You have to live where you work.”
Do you still struggle with French?
“I gave up,” Rick admits. “It’s just too difficult. In Paris, I play the role of the foreigner. It’s romantic, but not always comfortable. In London, taxi drivers are so sweet, I’d hug them.”
Tell us more about your muse, Michele Lamy.
“She has a very strong personality. We clash often, but it works for us. She’s expressive, while I keep things inside. We’re separate in many ways, but that’s our dynamic. I’ll never fully understand her.”
Michele Lamy – the muse of Rick Owens.
Your brand is now worth $100 million. How do you handle the pressure?
“We’ve surpassed what we expected. I’ve invested enough that if it all falls apart, I’ll be fine. What scares me is getting stuck. I never want to stop evolving.”
Are you a businessman or an artist?
“Both,” he says, before hesitating. “But I hesitate with ‘artist.’ The art world has changed. I struggled with the theory when I was younger. But as I matured, I found my own way of creating art, and I’m proud that my designs are wearable, not just for display.”
Rick Owens, the quiet innovator, continues to defy norms, leaving his mark not just on fashion, but on culture itself. His creations aren’t for everyone - but for those who get it, they’re absolutely everything. 🖤
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