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Suit Jacket Styling: Going Solo with Confidence

Writer's picture: Tom GoedhartTom Goedhart

Updated: Dec 16, 2024

I don’t often wear a full suit - only for significant events or when it's required. When it comes to tailored clothing, my wardrobe is packed with blazers and sports jackets. Their versatility is unbeatable, especially when paired with my all-time favorite: jeans.

But I get it - once you own a suit, you want to make the most of it. You’ll want to mix and match the pieces with other outfits, and that’s where the idea of separating your suit comes into play. It’s a clever way to get more mileage out of your clothing. The question is: Can you really wear just the jacket without looking like you're trying too hard?


Let’s clear that up: Yes, you can absolutely separate a suit! The Italians even have a term for this method - spezzato. The key is understanding the formality of each piece, which comes down to the details of your suit and jacket. Once you understand how these elements work together, you’ll be styling a solo jacket like a pro.


Not every suit jacket is designed to be worn on its own. For it to work as a separate piece, it needs to have the relaxed, flexible vibe of a sports jacket. A typical suit is made with matching fabric for the jacket and trousers, while a sports jacket is intentionally made to pair with contrasting trousers. Here’s what to look for to know if your jacket is ready to go solo:


Material Matters

Formal clothing typically uses sleek, smooth fabrics like those found in Super 100s Wool, a fine fabric known for its smooth finish. On the other hand, casual fabrics like tweed, flannel, or seersucker offer more texture and visual appeal. A dark navy suit, while usually a formal piece, can easily become casual if made from a fabric like seersucker.

Dark navy is typically a sign of a formal suit, but with Seersucker fabric, it looks surprisingly "soft." In this case, the jacket can easily be separated to create a variety of different outfits.

If your suit jacket is made from wool, you’ll need to check the weave and finish. A jacket with a slight sheen and dark colors like charcoal is going to read as very formal, so mixing it with jeans might not work. On the other hand, a tweed jacket in earthy tones like brown or olive feels relaxed and is perfect for mixing.

Patterns also affect the formality. Pinstripes are synonymous with business attire, but larger stripes have a more laid-back vibe, often seen in rowers' uniforms. If your jacket has a bolder pattern like houndstooth or plaid, it’s safe to say you can separate it and still look stylish.


The Shape of the Jacket

The structure of your jacket speaks volumes about its formality. A jacket with heavily padded shoulders and a stiff structure is inherently more formal. Jackets with soft shoulders and light padding, however, are easier to dress down.


Details Make a Difference

Pay attention to the small details - these can transform the look of your suit jacket. For example, mother-of-pearl buttons found on linen or tropical wool jackets are a clear sign that the jacket is on the casual side. Additionally, the number of sleeve buttons also plays a role - jackets with fewer buttons always look more relaxed. Lastly, patch pockets are a more casual choice compared to flap pockets.

Fashion is a visual language, and like any language, you get better at it with practice. By paying attention to the fabric, fit, and details of your suit jacket, you'll quickly develop an instinct for when it’s right to wear it alone. Don’t be afraid to experiment and mix things up. In time, you’ll master the art of making your suit jacket stand out on its own!

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