Read This Before You Purchase Raw Denim

Following up on our previous discussion about raw denim, I want to dig deeper into what makes these "unwashed" jeans so intriguing. If you missed the last article, let’s get you up to speed: raw denim refers to jeans made from fabric that hasn’t gone through any industrial washing process. This means the dye remains intact, and it’s up to you to personalize the fade and wear patterns over time.

Every crease, fade, and even tear tells a story - your story. The beauty of raw denim is that no two pairs will ever look exactly the same once they’re broken in.

When you first get them, all raw jeans might seem like clones with their deep indigo color, but with wear, they become something entirely unique. Ready to dive in? Let’s go.

Shrinkage

You’d think only cheap clothing shrinks after washing, but with raw denim, it’s expected. Since raw denim isn’t pre-washed, your jeans will shrink a bit after their first wash. However, there’s a process called "sanforization" that helps reduce shrinkage by stretching and setting the denim through a machine process with chemicals, heat, and moisture.

Sanforized denim shrinks less than 1%, while unsanforized denim can shrink by 3% or more. If you’re dealing with unsanforized raw denim, expect them to shrink by one to two sizes after the first wash, so plan accordingly. Personally, I always go a size up with unsanforized denim. If you’re new to raw jeans, I’d recommend starting with sanforized fabric for an easier experience.

Raw Denim Weight

Comfort matters when choosing your jeans. Raw denim comes in different weights, measured in ounces per yard. Anything under 12oz is considered lightweight, 12-16oz is medium, and over 16oz is heavyweight. One brand that stands out in the heavyweight category is Naked & Famous, known for producing a pair of jeans that weighed a ridiculous 32oz - they can literally stand upright by themselves.

The 32oz jeans from Naked & Famous can literally stand on their own!

Heavier denim is tougher to break in and takes longer to fade, making it highly prized among denim enthusiasts who love the challenge. On the flip side, lighter denim is easier to wear but doesn’t deliver the same rich fades. Choose wisely based on how much patience (and pain tolerance) you have.

This pair of Nudie jeans has clearly been through a lot with its owner over time.

It's always the same - the initial feeling when wearing raw jeans is quite uncomfortable due to the stiff fabric. But after wearing them regularly for a week, things change as the denim begins to soften. By the second and third week, it only gets better. After six months and the first wash, you'll find you don't want to wear any other pair of jeans!

Selvedge Denim

Selvedge denim is easily spotted by the white and red stitching along the inside seam. While some claim that selvedge denim is stronger than regular denim, I personally think the appeal is more aesthetic - especially when you cuff your jeans and show off that edge. Whether you go for selvedge or non-selvedge, raw denim is inherently tough.

Picking the Right Size

As with any piece of clothing, getting the right size is crucial. Measure your waist, hips, thighs, and decide on how wide or narrow you want the leg to be. Don’t forget the leg length - are you a straight cuff guy, or do you prefer to roll them up? If you’re unsure, go for a slightly longer length; you can always get them hemmed, but you can’t add length once they’re too short.

Remember, sizing is especially tricky with unsanforized jeans due to shrinkage, so if you’re ordering online, you’re taking a bit of a gamble.

Where to Buy?

1. There are plenty of great raw denim brands out there, including A.P.C, Nudie Jeans, Naked & Famous, Acne, and more.

2. If you want to dive into the premium Japanese brands, check out denimio.com, which offers jeans from legends like Japan Blue, Pure Blue Japan, Momotaro, and Samurai. I got my Japan Blue jeans from there, and they arrived hassle-free with Vietnam’s EMS service.

3. If you’re in Ho Chi Minh City, check out Denimister, a cool spot for secondhand denim enthusiasts. It’s a fantastic place to snag Nudie jeans and perfect for anyone new to the raw denim world.

Raw denim is a commitment, but it’s one that pays off with a completely unique pair of jeans that reflect your lifestyle. Take your time, choose the right size and weight, and enjoy the process. Once they’ve molded to your body, you won’t want to wear anything else.

#rawdenim #selvedgedenim #mensfashion #denimlife #fadedjeans