Virgil Abloh's passing last Sunday at the age of 41 is a poignant reminder of how swiftly life can change. His creative brilliance transcended traditional fashion, making a profound impact on contemporary culture. After a quiet battle with cancer, Abloh leaves behind a legacy that feels almost like a modern fairy tale, hinting that his monumental achievements were merely the beginning of a much larger story.
As the Creative Director of Louis Vuitton's menswear line and the mastermind behind Off-White, Abloh wore many hats, even dabbling in diverse sectors under the LVMH umbrella, including wine, hotels, and nurturing emerging design talent. Not bad for someone who only embarked on this fashion journey six years ago and earned the title of "Karl Lagerfeld for the millennials."
From Chicago to Collaboration with Kanye West
Virgil Abloh's origins were far removed from the glitzy world of fashion. Growing up in a predominantly Black suburb of Chicago in a Ghanaian immigrant family, Abloh was shaped by his mother, a seamstress, and his father, who worked in a paint company. While he learned sewing from his mother, fashion was never his initial passion.
His academic pursuits in engineering and architecture took precedence, and during his time in university, he became enamored with Renaissance Art. Fast forward to a decade later, and he earned the moniker "The Renaissance Man" for his innovative take on high-end streetwear.
The pivotal moment in Abloh's career came in 2009 when he interned at Fendi alongside Kanye West. This partnership blossomed into a close friendship, as they navigated the world of fashion together, attending shows in Paris and cultivating their creative synergy. This collaboration continued, with Abloh even earning a Grammy nomination for his art direction on Kanye West and Jay-Z's album Watch the Throne, marking his formal entry into the fashion scene.
The Creative Powerhouse of Modern Fashion
In 2013, Abloh launched his first brand, Pyrex Vision, where he took unsold Ralph Lauren shirts, stamped them with the Pyrex Vision logo and the number 23, and sold them for a staggering $550. It was a bold move that paid off.
The following year, he closed Pyrex Vision and founded Off-White, which quickly garnered attention for its unique designs inspired by industrial aesthetics: think white arrows, bold stripes, quotation marks, and oversized zippers. Off-White made its debut at Paris Fashion Week, with celebrities like Rihanna sporting the brand, catapulting it into the limelight.
Everything Abloh touched seemed to turn to gold. He famously carried a marker pen everywhere, sketching the now-iconic quotation marks wherever inspiration struck. If King Midas had a touch that turned everything to gold, Abloh had his marker pen!
In 2017, Off-White collaborated with Nike to reinvent ten of the brand's most famous sneaker designs. Abloh deconstructed these shoes, adding his signature quotation marks, resulting in a collection that became a phenomenon among sneaker enthusiasts, with prices skyrocketing far beyond the original $200 retail tag.
In 2018, Abloh solidified his status as a creative juggernaut, completing 22 collaboration projects in a single year, including partnerships with Champion, Le Bon Marché, and Ikea. That same year, he made history as the first Black Creative Director for Louis Vuitton's menswear line in over 160 years.
What Drives the Virgil Abloh Phenomenon?
From a purely design standpoint, Virgil Abloh may not be on the same level as fashion legends like Jean Paul Gaultier or Alexander McQueen. He even admitted in an interview with The New Yorker that he didn't see himself as a traditional fashion designer, suggesting that a mere 3% alteration to an existing design creates something entirely new. This perspective has drawn criticism, with some arguing that Off-White’s designs are more of a collage of existing ideas than original creations.
The first runway show of Virgil Abloh as the Creative Director of men's fashion at Louis Vuitton took place in June 2018.
Yet, he entered the fashion scene at a time when the industry was eager for fresh ideas that resonated with younger consumers. As luxury fashion increasingly catered to Millennials and Gen Z, who are willing to splurge on trendy items, Abloh was perfectly positioned to meet this demand. He understood the value of being perceived as "cool," turning hype into a lucrative business model.
Abloh's designs, often featuring quotation marks, served as a commentary on the fashion industry and its evolving standards. They resonate with a generation that feels simultaneously excluded from high fashion and empowered to challenge traditional aesthetics.
His genius extended beyond fashion, blending business savvy with artistic vision. With millions of Instagram followers and the clout of celebrities like A$AP Rocky and Kanye West wearing his designs, Abloh became a cultural phenomenon, reinforcing the desire for Off-White among consumers, regardless of the price.
Virgil himself noted that sometimes a new design could come together in just 10 minutes. His avant-garde pieces were often simple and economical, stripping away the complexities that typically define luxury fashion. This approach proved successful even at Louis Vuitton, where he brought a modern sensibility to a storied brand. As Alex Castro from The Verge observed:
"These designs might seem stupid at first glance. But because they're stupid, you end up spending time thinking about them, pondering society and the fashion industry, and where capitalism has taken us that such designs are celebrated."
Is the King Out of Time?
There was a time when wearing an Off-White T-shirt, hypebeast shoes, and a bucket hat (perhaps Balenciaga) could make you a fashionista. However, times have changed.
A BoF report last year revealed Off-White's revenue dropped by 40-50% on platforms like Farfetch, necessitating more frequent sales (around 7%) to attract buyers. The brand's media value also fell by about 40% post-COVID. During the Spring/Summer 2020 show, Virgil Abloh missed the event due to exhaustion. Off-White's recent designs have been criticized for lacking the excitement that brands like Gucci and Balenciaga offer to younger audiences. If its best-selling items - T-shirts, socks, and accessories - fall out of favor with hypebeasts, the brand could be in serious trouble.
Just as speculation arose about a shift to more affordable streetwear, LVMH announced it was acquiring 60% of Off-White, placing Virgil Abloh in a key role for creative decisions. This indicates that he may be ready to free Off-White from the pressure of his own legacy and take his vision to a larger platform.
For Virgil, it feels like a new beginning. He once mentioned he had only just awakened and felt incomplete. The fashion community will remember him with deep regret, knowing no one will witness his unique magic in fashion again.
By Dieuanh.
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