Virgil Abloh’s untimely passing at just 41 has left an irreplaceable void in the world of fashion and culture. His creativity was a force that broke barriers and transcended borders, earning him a place not only in high fashion but as a cultural icon. After a private battle with cancer lasting several years, Virgil left us too soon, with so much of his creative journey seemingly just beginning.
As the Creative Director for Louis Vuitton’s menswear line and founder of Off-White, Virgil’s influence stretched far and wide. Beyond his iconic work in fashion, he played roles as a DJ, artistic director, and a key figure in several LVMH ventures, including wine, hotels, and talent scouting. Quite an empire for someone often dubbed the "Karl Lagerfeld of the millennial generation."
Humble Beginnings in Chicago and a Life-Changing Friendship
Born and raised in the suburbs of Chicago, Virgil Abloh’s journey was far removed from the conventional paths to fashion. Growing up in a Ghanaian immigrant family, he absorbed tailoring skills from his mother, a seamstress, yet showed no inclination toward fashion during his early years.
In fact, Virgil pursued engineering and architecture in college. But an elective course on Renaissance art sparked a fascination that would shape his future. A decade later, the world would anoint him the "Renaissance Man" of streetwear.
His career pivot began in 2009 during an internship at Fendi, where he worked alongside none other than Kanye West. The two creative powerhouses bonded instantly, attending fashion shows together and immersing themselves in the industry. Over time, Virgil became Kanye’s trusted collaborator, even earning a Grammy nomination as the art director for Kanye and Jay-Z’s Watch the Throne.
Reigning Supreme in Fashion
Virgil Abloh’s first independent fashion venture, Pyrex Vision, launched in 2013, is the stuff of legend. His approach? Buy unsold Ralph Lauren shirts, print the Pyrex logo and the number 23, and resell them for $550. Bold, to say the least.
In 2014, Virgil founded Off-White. Using industrial motifs - arrows, stripes, and quotation marks - he created designs that redefined streetwear and caught the world’s attention. Rihanna was one of the first celebrities to wear Off-White, cementing its status as a cultural phenomenon.
From there, Virgil could do no wrong. In 2017, his Off-White x Nike collaboration deconstructed ten iconic sneakers, turning them into coveted collector’s items. Retailing at $200, these shoes sold for thousands on resale platforms - a testament to their unparalleled demand.
By 2018, Virgil Abloh had secured his legacy, undertaking 22 collaborations in one year, including projects with Nike, Rimowa, Ikea, and Timberland. That same year, he shattered ceilings by becoming the first Black Artistic Director for Louis Vuitton’s menswear in its 160-year history.
The Virgil Abloh Phenomenon
Virgil Abloh wasn’t just a designer; he was a cultural interpreter. While he might not rival names like Alexander McQueen or Yohji Yamamoto in technical design, his genius lay in blending business acumen with art.
Virgil's debut runway show as the Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton's menswear took place in June 2018.
Virgil famously stated that altering just 3% of a design makes it new. Critics accused him of borrowing excessively, but he was unapologetic. His Off-White motifs, like the arrow symbol, were equal parts satire and a reflection of modern consumer culture.
What made Virgil’s work resonate so deeply? Timing and vision. At a moment when luxury fashion struggled to connect with a younger audience, he brought hype and accessibility. Millennials and Gen Z were willing to pay premium prices for Off-White designs because they felt authentic and cool.
Virgil’s brilliance extended to marketing, where he leveraged his 6 million Instagram followers and relationships with celebrities like Kanye West and A$AP Rocky to amplify Off-White’s cultural cachet. His designs became symbols of rebellion against traditional fashion norms, much like the LV monogram once defined earlier generations.
You could spend hours pondering why Off-White’s designs became so iconic, but even Virgil himself admitted he sometimes only spent 10 minutes creating a new piece. The brand’s so-called avant-garde creations were often straightforward and economical - distinctly not intricate.
When Virgil transitioned to Louis Vuitton, he brought that same accessible, pared-down style to the 162-year-old fashion house, and it worked. As Alex Castro of The Verge once wrote:
“These designs seem stupid at first glance. But because they seem stupid, you spend time thinking about them. You reflect on society, the fashion industry, and where capitalism has brought us that we celebrate such designs. Then you realize it doesn’t mean anything at all. Kids on the streets wear this stuff and post it on Instagram to seem ‘deep,’ but both they and I are mistaken. Is Virgil Abloh saying something profound about our society? I don’t think so.”
The King’s Time
There was a moment when wearing an Off-White hoodie, a pair of hypebeast sneakers, and maybe a bucket hat (Balenciaga, anyone?) made you a certified fashionista. But times change.
According to a report by BoF last year, Off-White’s sales on e-commerce platforms like Farfetch dropped by 40-50%. Discounts became more frequent - 7% more, on average - to move inventory. Media value for the brand fell 40% after COVID-19. The Spring/Summer 2020 show was a turning point, as Virgil himself was too exhausted to attend, citing health issues.
Critics noted that Off-White’s recent collections felt stale compared to the bold creativity of Gucci and Balenciaga. The brand’s bestsellers - tees, socks, and accessories like bags and belts - faced waning interest from hypebeasts. Without their loyalty, Off-White risked stagnation.
Just as speculation swirled about whether Virgil might reposition Off-White as a more affordable streetwear brand, LVMH announced its acquisition of a 60% stake in the company. This deal elevated Abloh to a pivotal role in LVMH’s creative decisions across its portfolio.
This move hinted that Virgil was ready to release Off-White from the immense pressure of his name and focus on a larger creative playground with LVMH. His “golden touch” was now poised to impact a broader spectrum of luxury.
For Virgil, everything felt like just the beginning. He once said he had only just awakened creatively and didn’t feel “finished” at all. The fashion world now mourns his loss with profound regret, knowing that we’ll never again see Virgil perform his magic on the runway.
Rest in peace, Virgil Abloh. Your legacy is eternal.
By Dieuanh.
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