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Drinking Your Way Through the Lanterns

Writer's picture: Tom GoedhartTom Goedhart

Updated: Dec 25, 2024

After almost a year away, I’ve finally made it back to Hoi An - my fourth or fifth time now. It’s kind of funny, really. Visiting Hoi An has become this unshakable tradition, almost like a ritual I can’t break, even though part of me thinks I should save that money for exploring new places. But I just can’t!

And here I am again, soaking in the vibrant blue sky and strolling through the yellow-painted streets. The heat, of course, is intense, and while biking around town seems like a romantic idea, it quickly turns into a sweat-filled reality.

Having visited so many times before, this trip is all about indulging in the things I’ve missed since my last time here - the peaceful cafes in the midday heat, the smoky scents of grilled meats wafting through the air, and the unforgettable taste of cao lầu. In this post, I’m not going to talk about how picturesque or fun Hoi An is; instead, I’ll focus on some of my favorite spots. Because let’s be real, Hoi An wouldn’t be the same without lounging in a cozy cafe, sipping on something cool, and letting the tranquil vibe of this place sink in.

There’s a lot I could say about this town, and one post won’t do it justice. So today, I’m just going to focus on the cafes and Western-style restaurants that I frequent whenever I’m here. Stay tuned for the next post, where I’ll dive into some local Vietnamese gems - like the best cao lầu I’ve had, which surprisingly isn’t in the ancient town but the local market.

First up is Cargo Club. Located on Nguyễn Thái Học Street, this spot is just a short walk from the communal house. It’s a spacious venue with an open layout that seamlessly blends one area into another.

What I love about Cargo is its laid-back atmosphere. Even when it’s packed, the white walls and natural light flooding in through large windows keep the vibe light and airy. The music is just okay, but the service? Honestly, pretty disappointing. The indifference of the staff feels out of place in a town as warm and friendly as Hoi An. Or maybe it’s just me?

Despite the service, I keep coming back for the food. Their dessert and ice cream menu are a particular highlight. You’ve got to try the Baby Pavlova! The light, crisp meringue paired with fragrant whipped cream and a sweet, tangy mango and passion fruit sauce is the perfect balance of flavors. It’s like summer on a plate. Their almond fruit cake is another winner, as is the strawberry dessert with a crunchy top layer (it has some fancy French name I always forget). But for me, the ice cream steals the show - especially the sorbet, which is as refreshing as a cool breeze, and the rich, creamy chocolate ice cream that melts perfectly on your tongue.

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Bữa sáng 75k với bánh mì, croissant, nước cam chanh, cafe, hoa quả, các loại mứt và bơ.
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Next, there’s Mango Room, a spot I love but feel is a bit overpriced. I usually swing by in the afternoon, order a pitcher of sangria, and claim a seat by the window overlooking the river. The colorful chairs pop against the old-school green walls, and while the heat can be unbearable at first, the breeze from the ceiling fan eventually becomes a blessing.


For dinner, I decided to switch things up this time and skip my usual spot, Before and Now. Instead, I tried an Italian restaurant called Morning Glory. Technically, there are two Morning Glory locations right next to each other - one serving Vietnamese food and the other Italian. I went for the Italian option, and I was pretty happy with my choice.

The meal kicked off with a simple salad featuring prosciutto, frisée, boiled eggs, and slices of cheese.

Một món cá của bạn tôi gọi.
Salad đây.

 It wasn’t mind-blowing, but it set the stage for the main course: Vongole. This Italian spaghetti dish with clams and white wine is a personal favorite of mine, and I wasn’t disappointed. The pasta was thick and cooked al dente, which might feel undercooked to some, but it’s perfect in my book. I like my noodles with a bit of chew. My only gripe was that the dish got dry quickly, as the pasta soaked up all the sauce, making it hard to finish.

Mỳ Vongole của tôi đây.

A friend ordered the carbonara, but it wasn’t to my taste. They used cream in the sauce, which made it way too heavy for me, and I wasn’t a fan of the fettuccine noodles. I prefer carbonara with thick spaghetti, an egg-based sauce, and proper cuts of meat like prosciutto - not ham or bacon.


We also shared a pizza, which was decent, but the crust was so thin it felt more like a cracker than a pizza base. It’s just personal preference, but I like a thin crust that still has a bit of softness. This one was a bit too crunchy and dry, with not enough cheese to balance it out.

Hơi khô phải không?

The star of the night, though, was the steak my friend ordered. This thing was huge! Perfectly cooked medium-rare, the beef was tender and juicy, and the cheese sauce, while rich, worked well with the meat. The side of grilled vegetables was also seasoned beautifully and plentiful. I only wish I could find a steak this good back home in Hanoi.

Steak khổng lồ.

To cap off the meal, we tried their homemade limoncello. It’s incredible - bright lime-green with an intense flavor. At first, the vodka hits hard, like the midday heat, but soon after, the sweetness kicks in, leaving a refreshing lemony taste that lingers. It’s the perfect way to end a hearty meal.

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The prices at Morning Glory are reasonable, comparable to restaurants in Hanoi. We spent around 500k per person, which felt fair for the quality and portion sizes.

Apart from these three spots, I’ve got a few other recommendations worth checking out:

Le Banyan: Located by An Bang Beach, this bar offers great views with colorful seating and hammocks. The vibe is always lively, and while the cocktails are just okay, the food is reasonably priced.

Hải Cafe: A classic, though I skipped it this year since their outdoor seating with a view of the old town has been replaced with more industrial-looking tables.

Before and Now: While I didn’t stop by this time, it’s still a solid option for drinks, music, and watching football. If you’re looking for a more energetic vibe, head across the river to the bars that light up the night. I always pass by and wish I had the energy to join in.


Stay tuned for part two, where I’ll dive into my favorite local Vietnamese spots in Hoi An.

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