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Writer's pictureTom Goedhart

How to Identify a High-Quality Dress Shirt

Dress shirts are essential when it comes to looking polished and sophisticated, whether worn under a suit or solo. But too often, the importance of a quality dress shirt gets overlooked. Many guys assume people only notice the outer layer, so they settle for something that’s "good enough." However, a truly sharp wardrobe starts with the right foundation, and a top-notch dress shirt can elevate your entire outfit.

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Whether you're dressing up for a formal event or simply want to look put together, having a high-quality dress shirt is key. And let's be honest - sometimes you just want to rock a sharp shirt because you feel like it 😎.

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So, how can you tell if your dress shirt is worth the investment? Let’s dive in:

Fabric Material

Cotton is king when it comes to dress shirts. It’s breathable, durable, and easy to care for. The best dress shirts are made from two-ply cotton (2-fold yarn), which uses two strands of cotton twisted together for a softer yet stronger fabric. This gives you comfort and durability, both essential in a great shirt.

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While cotton blends with polyester are out there, experts say steer clear. Sure, they’re more wrinkle-resistant, but polyester gives the fabric a cheap shine and an uncomfortable rustling feel. Stick with 100% cotton for a classic look that feels good on the skin.

Sturdy Collar

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A dress shirt’s collar should hold its shape. If it’s too soft and floppy, it’ll look messy and lose that crisp, formal feel. High-quality shirts come with collar stays or button-down options to keep the collar looking sharp. If the collar’s curling or bending out of shape, you’re better off leaving that shirt on the rack.

Buttons

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The material of the buttons isn’t as important as how they’re sewn onto the shirt. Tug on them a little - are they secure, or do they feel like they’ll pop off with a little pressure? High-quality shirts feature well-stitched buttons, and you’ll likely never need to use the spare buttons they come with 😉.

Precision Stitching

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Good stitching is a hallmark of a quality shirt. Take a close look—uneven seams or stray threads are signs of poor craftsmanship. High-end shirts have up to 10-15 stitches per inch, especially around the collar and cuffs, where extra sturdiness is needed. Double seams along the sides and sleeves also prevent stretching, so the shirt holds its shape.

Design Details

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Patterns matter, especially when it comes to stripes or checks. The alignment of these patterns at the seams should be precise - no sloppiness here. Also, look for a slightly longer back hem to make tucking in easier. Speaking of tucking in, the last buttonhole should be horizontal to prevent the shirt from shifting when tucked. These subtle design details really enhance the shirt’s functionality and longevity.

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The Central Back Seam Debate

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Some shirts feature a central back seam (also known as a split yoke) that divides the back into two panels. Some argue it’s just for style, while others claim it improves comfort and prevents shoulder strain when moving your arms. Whether or not this seam matters is up for debate, but many consider it a mark of higher quality.

Key Takeaways:

  • Fabric: Two-ply cotton is the gold standard.

  • Polyester: Avoid blends—they look and feel cheap.

  • Collar: Should be sturdy, with collar stays or buttons to keep it in place.

  • Buttons: Well-sewn buttons indicate quality.

  • Stitching: Uniform and sturdy stitching (10-15 stitches per inch) is a must.

  • Design Details: Pattern alignment, longer back hem, and proper buttonholes all add to durability.

  • Back Seam: A central back seam can be a sign of craftsmanship, but opinions vary.

Investing in a quality dress shirt pays off, as it looks great, lasts longer, and makes you feel like a million bucks, no matter the occasion. Keep these tips in mind and level up your wardrobe game.

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