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Writer's pictureTom Goedhart

Mastering the Linen Shirt: Your Guide to Wearing It Right

As summer draws to a close, many of you are still curious about breathable linen shirts. Given Vietnam's sweltering climate, it's no surprise that these shirts are both stylish and practical.

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For me, linen shirts conjure images of carefree beach vacations, where men can dress comfortably in slightly looser-fitting garments, often standing out in crisp white.

What Is Linen and Why Is It Priced Higher?

Linen is a natural fabric made from the flax plant, with historical records suggesting its origins in Egypt around 4,000 years ago. The craft of linen production eventually spread across Europe, with Belfast, Northern Ireland, becoming the "capital" of linen during Queen Victoria's era.

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Similar to cashmere, the high cost of linen can be attributed to the labor-intensive manufacturing process. Factors like climate also play a critical role in determining the fabric's quality. Premium linen fibers must be hand-harvested and undergo multiple steps, including soaking, beating, seed removal, and combing. Using machines often compromises the quality and longevity of the fabric. Therefore, expect to pay at least $100 for a high-quality linen shirt.

Linen is truly one-of-a-kind, and here are some essential tips to consider when choosing the perfect linen shirt:

Embrace Natural Wrinkles

When you own a linen shirt, aim for natural wrinkles instead of a crumpled look that suggests it just emerged from the back of a closet. Wrinkles are a characteristic feature of linen, so resist the urge to iron them out. Simply wear the shirt and let your body heat help the wrinkles look more relaxed.

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Prioritize Softness

Opt for a linen fabric that's soft, but not so thin that it becomes transparent. I’ve seen shirts with overly thick material that sacrifice comfort and flexibility, which defeats the purpose of wearing linen.

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Linen shirts can be styled with chinos, swim shorts, leather sandals, and white sneakers. However, pairing them with jeans and boots can be more complicated, as these heavier materials might clash with the lighter linen. If you really want to wear jeans, go for light-colored, slightly distressed pairs.

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When it comes to blazers, tread carefully. Both linen shirts and blazers are relaxed pieces, and it’s crucial to avoid wearing them together. If you want to wear a blazer, opt for a heavy fabric like wool to balance the linen shirt. Conversely, combining a linen blazer with a classic cotton shirt can create an appealing contrast in textures.

Don’t Store Your Linen Shirts Just Because Summer Is Over

Many people associate linen with summer, but these shirts can transition well into cooler months. Pairing a linen shirt with a blazer, cardigan, or light jacket can keep you looking sharp as temperatures drop.

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It's common for guys to wear tight undershirts for added insulation before putting on their main shirt. While this may work with oxford or denim shirts, it’s a mistake with delicate linen. An undershirt can disrupt the shape of your linen shirt, leading to a fashion faux pas when the inner layer peeks out. Additionally, linen is naturally dry, and even if it absorbs some moisture, it dries quickly, making an undershirt unnecessary.

For quality yet affordable options, consider brands like Zara, H&M, and Uniqlo. I particularly recommend Uniqlo for their linen shirts, which offer a luxurious feel comparable to high-end brands, often priced at just $35 (currently on sale for only $15!).

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