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Nail the Perfect Fit: Tips for a Polished Appearance

Writer's picture: Tom GoedhartTom Goedhart

Updated: Dec 16, 2024

One thing I always want my readers to keep in mind when shopping is the significance of a good fit. The end-of-year sales are a classic example of how impatience can lead to regrettable choices. Imagine this: the jacket you’ve been eyeing finally goes on sale for half price, but size M is sold out. You think, “Why not?” and take home a size L that’s far too big. As a result, it rarely sees the light of day because it ruins your silhouette and neat style. Is it really still your favorite piece?

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When it comes to suits, where rules and guidelines abound, fit becomes even more critical. It’s frustrating to see suits styled in the “Korean fashion” with jackets that are overly short and sleeves that are uncomfortably tight. Before you settle on fabric, color, or any other minor details, ensure the suit fits well, whether it’s off-the-rack or custom-made. Here are some key indicators to help you assess a suit's fit:


Collar

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The collar should fit snugly around the shirt collar underneath without lifting when you bend forward.

Shoulders

Regardless of whether the suit has shoulder pads, the shoulders should contour perfectly to your own, without bulging or wrinkling due to tightness.

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In short, the jacket’s shoulders should align seamlessly with yours. I also suggest going for a suit with moderate shoulder padding to avoid a stiff appearance and uncomfortable weight.

Chest

The jacket should button easily, with the chest area fitting comfortably - not so tight that it crumples the shirt underneath. A simple test: button the jacket and try slipping a fist inside; the gap between the suit and shirt shouldn’t exceed the size of your fist.

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Jacket Length

Let your arms hang naturally and gently curl your fingers. If your fingertips touch the hem of the jacket, you've got the right length.

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If they can’t reach, the jacket is too short; if you can grab a handful of fabric, it’s too long. The back of the jacket should cover your buttocks, or at least the widest part.


Sleeves

Suit sleeves should reveal about 2-2.5 cm of your shirt cuffs. When you move your arms forward (like when shaking hands), it should feel comfortable, without excessive shifting of the sleeves. This test also applies to the collar, shoulders, and chest.

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Trousers

If you typically wear low-waisted jeans (like me), you may find that suit trousers sit higher, about 3-4 cm above the navel, with the back waistband fitting nicely at the hip bone. For length, refer to my article on trouser lengths.

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Additional Considerations

  1. There are two types of lapels: notch (V-shaped) and peak (pointed). Notch is the most basic style, suitable for office environments and various occasions. Peak lapels exude a classic vibe, offering strength and sophistication. Traditionally, gentlemen have chosen peak lapels to make a bold style statement. If you're unsure, stick with a notch lapel. 😉

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Notch (left) and Peak (right).


  1. The lapel width should complement the width of your shoulders. If you have narrower shoulders and a slender build, avoid wide lapels, as they can overwhelm your frame.

  2. For a two-button suit (the most common type), NEVER button the bottom button.

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When trying on a suit, wear a dress shirt and appropriate dress shoes to get the full picture. It’s also wise to bring friends along for an objective opinion.

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