A while back, I wrote an article about Nudie Jeans, introducing the concept of raw (or dry) denim. If you caught that piece, you’re already familiar with the basics, but the world of raw denim stretches far beyond just one brand. Lately, I’ve noticed the "dirty" jeans trend picking up steam in Vietnam, with more people getting curious about raw denim, and a few Facebook groups even popping up around it. As someone who's been passionately rocking no-wash jeans for nearly four years now, this is music to my ears.
For many of you, though, raw denim is still a new concept. This article aims to break down the basics and explain how raw denim differs from regular denim, so it’s easy to understand. We'll save the more in-depth details for another time.
What is Regular Denim?
In the world of regular jeans, the final step in production is washing the jeans after they’ve been dyed and sewn together. This wash lightens the jeans from their original, darker color. Sometimes, to achieve that worn, lived-in look, manufacturers even toss in stones during the washing process to create intentional wear patterns.
This washing step serves two purposes: it softens the fabric, making it more comfortable right off the shelf, and it minimizes shrinkage when the consumer takes them home. Because this process locks in the color, regular denim is often called "dead" denim. It won’t fade much over time - if at all.
What is Raw Denim?
Raw denim, on the other hand, skips this industrial wash entirely. After the fabric is dyed, it’s left untouched and sold as is - hence the term “raw” or “dry” denim. Each pair comes in a deep indigo blue, and it’s up to the wearer to break it in and determine how the jeans will fade and evolve after the first wash.
The new pair of pants (on the left) and after 1 year (on the right).
Typically, raw denim enthusiasts don’t wash their jeans for the first 6 months to a year - provided they wear them regularly. Some hardcore fans will go even longer, putting off the first wash for as long as possible.
One defining feature of raw denim is how easily it fades. If you drip water on a new pair and wipe it off with a tissue, you'll probably notice the tissue turning blue. That’s normal - raw denim hasn't been through any post-dye washing process. Don’t worry, though - any dye that transfers to lighter clothing can be easily washed out.
If you hold off washing your jeans for 6 months, you’ll start to see significant changes in how they look. The jeans will take on characteristics that reflect your daily life. If you sit a lot or are always on the move, expect to see creases and fades in the knee area or along high-friction spots. If you’re the type who slides into chairs, the back pockets will fade beautifully!
After the first 6 months and a single wash, raw denim transforms into a "mirror" that reflects the wearer's personality.
When raw denim is brand new, it’s like being in the "larval stage" - all jeans start off looking pretty similar with that deep indigo color. But after you put in the time and wear them in, they transform into a “butterfly,” revealing unique fades on the thighs, whiskers at the knees, and those iconic honeycomb patterns along the back of the legs. Even if you and a friend buy the exact same pair, after a few months, they’ll look completely different once washed. Each pair tells a different story.
Raw denim is like a slow, patient game, and the prize at the end is something truly one-of-a-kind, a pair of jeans that only you have created. Now, isn't that worth the wait?
Some of the world’s most famous raw denim brands include A.P.C, Naked & Famous, Nudie Jeans, and Acne. But don’t sleep on the Japanese brands like Pure Blue Japan, Momotaro, Japan Blue, Oni Denim, and Samurai Jeans. Japan is known for crafting some of the finest denim in the world. And even here in Vietnam, we have Copper Denim, a family-run brand with 30 years of history, offering high-quality jeans tailored to the Vietnamese body.
Copper Denim's commitment to quality is impressive and worth checking out.
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