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Writer's pictureTom Goedhart

Rick Owens: The Quiet Visionary of Fashion

Rick Owens is a name that often gets associated with words like bizarre, eccentric, and edgy. His designs are described as "glunge," a mix of glamor and grunge, perfectly encapsulating his unique vision. Owens' work has earned him a place in the fashion world as a designer who pushes boundaries and sets trends, often imitated but never duplicated.

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Dubbed the "most imitated designer" by The New York Times, Rick Owens’ impact is everywhere - from asymmetrical t-shirts to statement leather jackets. Even if you're not wearing Rick Owens, you're probably wearing something influenced by him. While many brands borrow - or even blatantly rip off - his designs, Owens seems unfazed. His company, OWENSCORP, now valued at around $100 million, is a testament to his success.

France, Paris, 04 March 2011 Portrait of Rick Owens, American fashion designer, in his Parisian Atelier. France, Paris, 04 mars 2011 Portrait de Rick Owens, couturier américain, dans son atelier parisien. Paolo Verzone / Agence VU

Rick’s journey in fashion began in the 1990s, hand-sewing jackets and selling them to boutiques. His big break came when celebrities like Courtney Love were spotted wearing his creations. But it was in 2002 when Vogue invited him to showcase his collection in New York that his career really took off. He moved to Paris in 2003 and married his long-time muse Michele Lamy, who now oversees the jewelry and furniture branches of his brand.

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At 52, Rick Owens may be a global fashion icon, but he's still that shy boy from suburban Los Angeles. He avoids eye contact in interviews, a habit that stems from being bullied as a child. “I was called ‘sissy’ and ‘freak’ because I was so quiet and weak,” he recalls. Yet, despite his introverted nature, Rick has a lot to say, especially about his work.

An Interview with Rick Owens

Do you enjoy talking about your work?

I tend to talk too much about it, actually. I’ve realized I love the sound of my own voice. Another thing I’ve noticed is how stubborn I can be about my opinions, like I know everything. I also want people to understand that I can be very contradictory. I’ll say one thing today and maybe the exact opposite a year later.

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How do you approach designing your clothes?

It might seem dull to some, but everything starts with a few notes that only I can decipher. I write down ideas while at the gym, and they’re usually just a couple of cryptic words like “exploding pyramid.” That’s all I need to translate it into a design.

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Who do you design for?

I design for myself, honestly. The only thing that keeps my work from spiraling into chaos is the distinction between what I want and how I express it. If I start thinking about what others want, I lose my way. It’s both a point of pride and a source of shame for me.

What would you say to people who don’t like your designs?

I’d tell them to look elsewhere. Maybe fashion isn’t their thing, or perhaps what fits into my world doesn’t align with theirs. But make no mistake - I’m not dismissing my customers. My designs are perfect within my own world.

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What drew you to fashion?

I think about this a lot. Sometimes I find it a bit frivolous. But in a way, fashion is like a conversation. I speak through my designs, and people respond by purchasing them. That form of communication is incredibly addictive.

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Why did you relocate to Paris?

My work and studio are in Europe, and Paris is the epicenter of fashion. I tried to work in Los Angeles, but in the end, I needed to live where I create.

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How’s your French coming along?

It’s not. I gave up. It’s ridiculously difficult, so I’ve accepted being the foreigner. But I do love the sound of the language - it’s always so romantic and dreamy. And while Paris has its charms, I find places like London far more comfortable. I’m always tempted to hug the taxi drivers there - they’re just so polite!

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Tell us about your muse, Michele Lamy.

Michele has a very strong personality, and we often clash when we work together. But that’s something we accept. She has her own world that I don’t enter, and I have no desire to. I don’t think I’ll ever fully understand her, and that’s okay.

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Your brand is now worth $100 million. How do you manage the pressure to keep growing?

We’ve already exceeded our expectations. I’ve invested wisely, so if it all collapsed tomorrow, I’d be fine. But I’m haunted by the fear of becoming stagnant, like some designers who never move past their early success. That scares me more than anything.

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Do you consider yourself more of a businessman or an artist?

Both, but I hesitate to use the word "artist." The art world has changed a lot since I first wanted to be a part of it. When I was younger, I studied art, but everything felt so abstract and disconnected from reality. What I’m most proud of now is how practical my designs are. People wear them - they don’t just hang on a wall.

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