Seiko 5 is the crown jewel of Seiko, beloved by watch enthusiasts, both seasoned collectors and newcomers alike. This iconic line has earned its reputation, often touted as the best in its price range, a “hidden gem,” and the next best thing if you can’t snag a Rolex. To appreciate the legacy of Seiko 5, we need to rewind to 1963 when the Seiko Sportsmatic 5 first made waves.
What began as the success of a single model has since evolved into a "sub-brand" boasting countless variations - from military and pilot watches to dive and chronograph designs, and even minimalist options. With most models priced under $300, the Seiko 5 is a highly accessible choice for anyone looking to dive into the world of mechanical watches.
The Seiko SNKE49 is on sale for $90 at Jomashop.
I've been aware of the Seiko 5 line for some time and have owned a couple of battery-powered Seiko watches before. But this is my first mechanical Seiko - the SNKE49 I snagged from Jomashop (normally $295, but I picked it up for $90 😎). Wondering why it's called the "5"? It’s all about the five key features that define this iconic line: automatic movement, water resistance, day/date display, recessed crown, and a robust case and strap.
The watch’s design is sleek, featuring a rounded, polished silver case and a clean, minimalist white dial.
One standout feature is the crown, positioned at 4 o’clock instead of the traditional 3 o’clock, recessed into the case - a signature of the Seiko 5 series. While the finish might not rival high-end timepieces, it's impressive for its price point.
The crown at 4 o'clock adds a unique touch that sets the Seiko 5 apart.
With a 38mm diameter, this is the smallest watch I’ve owned, and it fits perfectly on my relatively slim wrist (around 14.5-15cm). The case is roughly 12mm thick, with a simple rounded design and a polished silver finish. The dial’s milky white surface is paired with hour markers and minute numerals (5, 10, 15, … 60) for easy reading. The day/date display is neatly framed, contributing to the minimalist aesthetic. The hands are finely crafted with luminescent material, and the hour markers have small luminescent dots. The crystal is made of Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex material, which isn't as hard as sapphire but offers greater durability. According to Seiko, Hardlex is more resistant to shocks and impacts than sapphire of the same thickness. Of course, no one’s eager to put that to the test with a new watch 😅.
The 7S26 movement inside this watch has a power reserve of about 35 hours.
Now, let’s talk about the heart of the watch - its movement. While I can't guarantee this for all models, most Seiko 5 watches feature the Seiko 7S26 automatic movement, which debuted in 1996. This movement has 21 jewels and offers a theoretical power reserve of around 40 hours, though it varies slightly between models. In my case, it lasts about 35 hours when unworn. Experts praise the 7S26 for its durability, and finding a similar quality at this price point is rare.
The polished silver case is absolutely mesmerizing.
If you’re unfamiliar with jewels in watches, they’re used in the movement to reduce friction. These tiny gemstones act as bearings for the gears, ensuring smooth operation. However, more jewels don’t necessarily mean a better or more expensive watch; both natural and synthetic jewels are common, and most watches range from 17 to 21 jewels. Even quartz watches, like my Uniform Wares M42, can have jewels - though in that case, it’s more of a marketing gimmick 😆.
I love this watch, but the stock bracelet? Not so much.
The 7S26 movement doesn’t support manual winding, relying solely on wrist movements to stay powered. While that might seem like a drawback to some, even certain luxury watches share this feature. What I can’t overlook, though, is the stock bracelet - it’s just not my style 😅. I’m not a fan of the three-link metal bracelet, so I’ll probably swap it out for a new strap soon - maybe a gray suede one.
In short, the Seiko 5 is absolutely worth the money, especially for first-time mechanical watch buyers. Its reliability and craftsmanship are top-notch for the price.
After a week of wearing it, I can confidently say this watch was a great investment. The design is simple and solid, just what I was looking for, and it suits my casual and smart-casual outfits perfectly. If you’re new to mechanical watches and unsure where to start, Seiko 5 is your gateway - an affordable, dependable entry point that won’t leave a dent in your wallet.
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