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Writer's pictureTom Goedhart

The Ultimate Guide to Different Types of Leather for Shoes

Say Goodbye to Annoying Toe Creases with the Right Leather

If you’ve worn leather shoes, you know how bothersome those toe creases can be. Many believe these creases are a sign of cheap leather, thinking that more expensive shoes wouldn’t have this problem. However, unless you’re willing to spend over $600 on shoes made from shell cordovan leather, toe creases are unavoidable. This guide will introduce you to the most popular types of leather used in shoemaking today, helping you understand what protects and supports your feet.

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The Structure of Leather Layers

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Image: Real Men Real Style


Full-grain leather is the highest quality and most expensive type of leather. This is why shoes made from full-grain leather can cost significantly more than those made from top-grain leather. Suede, on the other hand, is leather where the flesh side is polished to create a napped (fuzzy) finish.

Cow Leather

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Cow leather is arguably the most common type of leather due to its wide availability and relatively low cost. When tanned properly, cow leather is very durable. For shoes under $150, cow leather is the norm. Don’t underestimate it—properly made cow leather shoes can be long-lasting, though they will develop creases over time.

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Berluti shoes, the dream of men around the world


Calfskin Leather

Calfskin is one of the most popular leathers for making shoes after cow leather, though it comes at a higher price. A pair of calfskin shoes can cost around $175, excluding import taxes. Well-maintained calfskin retains its shine longer than cow leather, with less noticeable creases depending on the shoe's design and fit.

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Crocodile Leather

Crocodile leather, known for its distinctive texture, is not cheap. Its quality can be truly assessed after at least six months of use. Popularized in the 1950s by wealthy stock traders, crocodile leather shoes are durable and require minimal care - just a few light strokes of polish.

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Ostrich Leather

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Ostrich leather is less common, possibly due to its large, distinctive pores. Despite its unique look, it’s not as popular as other types of leather.

Pig Leather

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Pig leather, though it might sound unusual, can be quite shiny with unique patterns. Due to its low cost, it is often used for lining the inside of shoes, bags, wallets, and more.

Reindeer Leather

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Reindeer leather, known for its simple beauty, is not overly dressy or flashy. It’s a unique choice but comes with a higher price tag - nearly $300 per pair.

Shell Cordovan Leather

Shell cordovan is the only leather that doesn’t develop creases, costing at least $600 for a high-quality pair. This leather, made from the hindquarters of a horse, becomes shinier over time and develops gentle waves instead of creases. It’s a hefty price, but worth every penny.

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No matter how expensive or cheap, every pair of shoes will develop creases with use. However, a well-made, high-quality pair of shoes with good leather and meticulous stitching will always be more durable and beautiful, with toe creases appearing as a graceful, essential characteristic.

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