If you're thinking about dipping your toes into the world of watches but feel overwhelmed, don't worry - you’re not alone. The best way to start is with the basics, and from there, you can gradually upgrade your knowledge. Armed with just a little information, you’ll feel much more confident when you step into a watch shop.
Think of this as a guide to equipping yourself with the "right tools" to tackle your first encounter with that ever-persistent salesperson. In this series, I’ll walk you through the fundamentals of watches, starting right here.
Mechanical vs. Quartz Watches: The Basics
On the left: mechanical watch, and on the right: quartz watch.
Mechanical watches need manual winding to keep ticking. There are two types:
Automatic: Winds itself as you move your wrist. These usually need servicing every 3-5 years.
Manual: You need to wind the crown regularly to keep the watch running.
Mechanical watches are admired for their craftsmanship. Brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and more affordable names like Rolex and Omega are the hallmarks of fine mechanical timepieces.
Quartz watches, however, run on batteries and use a quartz crystal to maintain accuracy. They’re less complex than mechanical watches, but they are far more precise. Due to their simplicity and affordability, most modern watches are quartz. That said, some high-end quartz models can fetch tens of thousands of dollars.
Pro Tip: Mechanical watches have a smooth sweeping motion, while quartz watches "tick" second by second. So if you see a Rolex or Patek Philippe with a ticking hand, it’s probably a fake.
Wearing a $50 genuine Seiko beats a fake $500 Rolex any day. Please, avoid the fakes—there’s no honor in wearing a counterfeit.
Tool Watches vs. Dress Watches
When shopping for a watch, you’ll encounter two main types:
Tool watches: These are built for specific functions. Examples include dive watches like the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, and Seiko SKX007. These watches are durable, often larger than 42mm, and come with luminous dials and impressive water resistance. Other tool watches include sports or pilot watches, often featuring chronographs (stopwatches), tachymeters, or heavy-duty designs like G-Shocks.
Dress watches: Elegant and simple, these watches are more refined, often featuring leather straps and slimmer cases (typically 36-38mm). Luxury dress watches sometimes come with high-end complications like minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, or tourbillons.
Daniel Craig – Tuxedo by Brioni and Seamaster watch.
While dress watches pair beautifully with a suit, you can rock a tool watch with a t-shirt and jeans. Heck, even James Bond sports an Omega Seamaster with a tux, so go ahead and break the rules if it feels right.
Price vs. Quality: Getting the Most Bang for Your Buck
George Clooney is always associated with Omega watches.
You don’t need to break the bank for a solid timepiece. For around $50, you can get a quality Seiko made in Japan. Here’s a rough guide to what you can expect based on your budget:
$50 range: Timex, Casio
$100 range: Seiko, Citizen, Orient
$200 range: Seiko, Orient, Citizen, Bulova
$300+: Hamilton, Tissot, Frederique Constant
There are plenty of other brands, but if none of these catch your eye, feel free to ask for recommendations - I'd be happy to help steer you in the right direction. And please, steer clear of poor-quality knockoffs. A classy watch is a reflection of you, and a good one can say a lot about your personal style.
Finding the Right Fit
Once you’ve decided on a brand and price range, make sure the watch fits your wrist properly. Wearing a tiny diver watch will look like you borrowed it from your sister, and an oversized one could make your wrist look comically small.
Here’s a simple formula to help you find the right size based on your wrist circumference (in mm):
Wrist circumference / 4.5 = optimal watch size
Wrist circumference / 4 = maximum watch size
Wrist circumference / 5 = minimum watch size
In general, dress watches should be smaller, tool watches larger, and casual watches somewhere in between.
These are just the basics to get you started. Stay tuned for the next part where we’ll dive deeper into the world of mechanical watches and unpack all the jargon you’ll need to know.
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